Syria and Jordan, 2010
24. Italy-25-06 -06 26-06
Damascus Damascus-Palmyra
27-06 Palmyra-Aleppo Aleppo
28-06 29-06 A-Ebla, Aleppo Apamea Noria-Ama-Krak des Chevalieres-Damascus
01-07 30-06 Damascus-Bosra Damascus-Amman-Jerash-Amman
02-07 Mt.Nebo-Madaba, Dead Sea-Petra
03-07 Petra-Wadi Rum Wadi Rum
04-07 Amman-Amman-Italy 05-07
introduction:
for this trip we have supported the agency in Damascus: Syrian
Holidays www.syrianholidays.com
agency very seriously, the organization was excellent.
Costs:
for
tour € 1140 per person for the flight: 464 € per person
These hotels in BB
Antique Khan 4 * Hotel in Damascus
Heliopolis hotel Palmyra Palmyra
Tourath house in Aleppo Aleppo
Gardens Hotel in AMMAN Amman
PETRA INN HOTEL PETRA Petra
HELLAWI Wadi Rum Wadi Rum CAMP
all very clean and decent.
Given more time, this trip can be done completely independently, the cities are well connected with a good bus service.
Taxis are everywhere and are inexpensive. People are always willing to help without ever being intrusive.
These countries were, for me, a surprise, I never imagined to find such modern cities, many roads, Jordan, especially.
The flight we ordered through the internet with Turkuch from London via Istanbul.
Throughout our trip lasted 11 days. Far too little, there is so much to see ...
Tale:
Syria and Jordan I ♥ you!
24-06 - 2010
I am a little confused! Many things have happened recently!
I can start from July 2009 to Samarkand, shot many photos, a woman comes up to me and asks me if I want to take a picture of his daughter or granddaughter? The child is very small, hard to believe understand that, but it seems in fact strike a pose for the shot. His cheerful and serene smile accompanied me for so long. When
Once back in Italy, we learn the news long-awaited, soon become grandparents. Needless to say, we are happy. The memory of that little girl I take it as a good omen!
Then, expectation, apprehension, birth, all the concerns that result from many months of anticipation ... then the situation has stabilized, we can relax a little, we are now late May, we decided to organize a short trip. There is little time for work we have just a few days only in June. Just enough time to search the Internet operators, pick one, buy your ticket and we, actually ...
few days before I start mammography, there is something suspicious, we found some suspicious calcifications, the doctor tells me, and my question: what it means, she replied: we know we ... I feel strange ... but they tell me that I can start the same, I want to be optimistic at all costs and party awaiting the outcome of the analysis!
Milan Malpensa, this year we change parking, Ferno Parking is very convenient, internet reservations.
We have passed the checks, the agency's letter of invitation to obtain visa on arrival in Syria has worked, great!
are 16.00 and the game begins. This year There are also the world, Emirates gives us the vision, there are many huge screens a bit 'everywhere, where we are, a knot of passengers are following with interest, are almost all Arabs, veiled women are seated on the ground are very attentive I do not understand anything about football to me is the show's viewers.
Our flight will leave at 17.45.
Our granddaughter now has a check-up, waiting for news, mobile phones blessed!
Exit B5 and we are already on board.
The flight is very quiet, Turkic offers excellent service on board.
Airport Istanbul greets us in all its glory, is magnificent, modern overly large, very busy.
Turkey, in ten years since we had visited, in fact giant steps.
Let's ride, the time goes fast and we are already on the flight to Damascus.
will be waiting the correspondent of Syrian Holidays, with the original document to obtain a visa, all right, are the 2:30 local time, there was a small delay in the time of departure.
The car we have available is very comfortable and modern, the hotel is beautiful, is housed in an old house, here they call them "boutique hotel", is furnished with antiques fair bill.
We are very tired, but I do not want to think quiet and then I fall asleep, sleep quiet.
After breakfast the first exploration of Damascus, today is Friday, is almost completely closed, the city turns with confidence, sure you can not visit the Grand Bazaar, but spend only one day to the city and the rest is not bad.
At first glance, the Syrians seem to be very sociable and cheerful, do not bother, they are very willing to give help when we can no longer find the way to the hotel, every time someone says hello and when they realize that we are Italians, "HAI HAI" we are told, because the Italian national team was eliminated ....
Here, as in all Arab countries, women have an important role within the family. There are also many Iraqis who fled their country, one of these approaches, but he does not know would speak English and we do not know Arabic.
many miles. A path we walk today? Hard to say but I think they are many!
E 'Friday, but is also low season, it is difficult to find a restaurant open, by dint of turning, we also lost, we paid a taxi, Damascus is a huge city, even the taxi drivers do not know Capilari, then call our hotel to get an explanation of the way, but at some point he stops, gets out and goes to get a sandwich and a drink, quietly, and then back again ... but we did come to the dinner idea: we take ourselves a great kebab sandwich: delicious!
June 26
Departure for Palmyra.
We have an appointment with the driver in a square ... and we also managed to find it!
first stop Manula, here is a beautiful monastery dedicated to St. Sergius and one dedicated to St. Thecla, the first Christian martyr. The monasteries are accessible by car or on foot through a narrow passage, between the high gorge carved by the river, needless to say that we reach them on foot.
The visit of the two houses is absolutely to be recommended. The decorations and frescoes of exquisite workmanship. I was very pleased to see the families of Muslims to visit these places.
Here we speak Aramaic, the language spoken by Jesus
Continue to Palmyra. Small
disappointment, we arrived, at least I was very tired, at 13.00 pm, the light is very hard, the sun beats down, the heat is sick ... I can not move me, I see beautiful things around me, I see the story but I remain a little detached, are furious with myself, but the driver had warned us, recommend that you visit in the evening, but it was too much curiosity that mistake! If we had waited several hours in the evening ... with the long shadows ... I will never see this site with the right light.
The majesty of this place deserves all the attention, all the concerns.
The new town is not much, but it is always interesting devote a little time.
In the evening we climb to the medieval citadel, overlooking the plain, the view from up here is poignant, not much people around, perhaps fifteen, many veiled women and their children, some families, very few tourists, we all together the sunset ...
As soon as the sun disappeared behind the horizon, the muezzin began the prayer, from the walls, the glare, the lights on and singing have made this moment a magical moment.
For dinner we sampled the famous "Hummus" a sort of pap of ground chickpeas and olive oil, eaten with traditional bread: good! Sunday June 27
We started quite early.
Today we visit the tombs, the structure is imposing, but the frescoes were damaged and decapitated statues ... Continue to
Rassi, the ancient Sergiopolis, this site is ststo a pleasant surprise and a welcome surprise.
The town dedicated to St. Sergio has kept his remains almost intact, its towering walls on which you can walk, the remains of the citadel and the cathedral, some picturesque views make this site a pleasant place in history. The city was very large at the time, from 500 BC to 500 d, c. It was a thriving and prosperous city, then the decline and the consequent abandonment of ...
we still have 150 km to reach Aleppo, cross a long stretch of desert, 65% of the territory of Syria is desert, so the population is concentrated in the remaining 40% of the territory. Through these places can be seen apparently abandoned country, when we ask the driver where the people are, we replied that actually went away, life is too hard in the desert, young people no longer want to make a sacrifice too much and too many sacrifices This explains why so many ancient towns and villages abandoned, when work no longer gives enough, when the effort is really too much, people move and seek a better way of living: it seems normal, everything has a beginning and everything has a end.
continue the approach to Aleppo, the driver is keen to show us the dam, built by the father of today's President, with the waters of the Euphrates. And 'work to see, quenches about 4 million people, irrigates the fields here are many, and produces electricity I do not want to comment, but work is very important to the economy of the region, very decisive.
It would also need us! Small Arraqqua
stop in for a snack, a boy wearing our flag welcomed us nicely, happy to talk with the Italian, the Syrians and Jordanians very much like Italy ...
Our driver has been destroyed, has an attack of sciatica, walking evil, the suffering has drawn on his face, asking us if we to do so including the visit to the monastery of St. Simeon tonight, so tomorrow we will be all day in Aleppo and we will not need a car. Of course we accept.
The monastery is an impressive work, great, somewhat poorly explained by the cartels, be careful because the entrance to the area has been converted to about halfway, then a part of it stays behind you notice when you go back .
column very little remains of the saint, but the atmosphere is all.
It 's wonderful to be here.
Here we are in Aleppo, the Milan of Syria, is a dynamic city alive and young. The streets are full of people until late at night, bars are very popular, wherever there are investment banks, luxury shops, we sat in a room located at the foot of the Citadel, teeming with people, veiled women who smoke hookah with extreme ease.
The dinner unfortunately has been little appreciated by us, a kind of stew, beans and chick peas yogurt, all drowned in oil. Before retiring
walk the central path of "shopping", the articles are the most extravagant sheer nightgowns embarrassing display in the windows with natural ease. By day the women are veiled ... but at night ...
again tonight to find the way to the hotel is a business. Monday June 28
After a fleeting breakfast start our tour in total independence.
The driver gave us clear guidance, we thought we had it all, but the city is a maze of narrow streets, lanes and alleyways. Let
by chance in front of the Mosque The Great Mosque, but it is closed, it opens at 13.00.
try this famous museum, we lost again ... ask, ask and ask again ...
Finally I see three girls wake up ... we finally have an indication. We make our visit, it is quite interesting, two custodians want to guide us, we can not download them and eventually they also want a tip ...
Now we head to the citadel, is very impressive from the outside, inside is a labyrinth, it is worth getting to the highest point, from here you have a superb view over the whole Aleppo!
This really hot.
Let's go downtown and look for the famous mosque. There is no way to find it. After a couple of hours here it is again for us if we pass, is finally open. Very much in
faithful few tourists. I had to wear a long dress with hood.
It 's very interesting to see the faithful in their prayers, devotion they have. The concentration ...
Today we walked at least from 9.00 to 15.00 continuously: they are exhausted!
but I really liked this wandering, I could see the real Aleppo.
Descriptions monuments found in any book, but lost in the crowd, not to get up to see more ... This for me is the sense of the journey.
few hours of well deserved rest and then back to the city streets, our wandering hours took us to a beautiful restaurant: kebabs and beer for a tot. 18 €.
Return to the hotel was easy, we leave tomorrow morning and now we have learned the way ... Tuesday June 29
wake up early, waiting for us a long way today, from Aleppo to Damascus, about 450 km. And along the way we have two very interesting visits: Ebla and Apamea, the wheels of Noria and the Krak des Chevalieres.
I read a lot about Ebla, I can not wait to be there, I am also curious why the excavations is run by Italian ...
Here ... that total disappointment !!!!!!!!!
are digging since 1964, but it's really just what they found, I have the impression that they do make work, this city is so old, is buried under several meters of land, everything is in total ruin, we are working at least 100 most workers supported a team of scholars, a massive undertaking that empties our pockets.
There was really bad.
whole area is a huge artificial mound, excavations have been made, but have not yet reached the original level. From what has emerged so far is not possible understand what it is, is assumed to be the royal palace, but I guess ... never end!
Now we go to Apamea, this city, very old, I loved it, even if it is not much of what remains of it, the feeling you're walking through here is just a city destroyed. The atmosphere is intact. Superbe its pillars, some twisted, massive and finely crafted with the capitals.
E 'was like taking a dip into history.
brief stop in Noria, suggestive wheels.
Here we are at Krak des Chevalieres!
A site worth visiting his greatness is breathtaking, a sight to see the rincorresi of the time, the chapel, then converted into a mosque, a fine example of Gothic art.
One could spend an entire day here without being able to see everything is marvelous.
Just outside my cell phone rang, a call from San Remo, I did not want to receive that phone call. My doctor wants to see as soon as possible, we set for July 8 at 12.00 to 11.00 or maybe are a little agitated ... but I decided that I fight and I will go out from this high-key story.
He returned to Damascus, set your bags and we are in the Suk, is always a feast for the eyes and soul ... all these colors, smells and noise.
We bought a tablecloth ... Damask for our room.
two sandwiches for dinner with kebabs and lots of fruit. All consumed in the room.
Wednesday June 30 morning program includes a visit to the museum and the city of Damascus.
While we had breakfast, an excellent breakfast of beans and peas, we came up with the idea of \u200b\u200bgiving up visit to the museum to dedicate ourselves completely to the city, to experience the city.
So we did take to the hills to give us a panoramic view of Damascus is a gigantic metropolis, bustling with traffic in exasperation. Like big cars and manage to squeeze in with these smaller streets with enviable skill.
Back in the center we passed the chapel dedicated to St. Paul, There does not seem right to dedicate a greeting. It 's a very simple construction, but with great charm.
I was happy.
Now we have to get lost in the souks and mosques. The most important is
Omayyad, very busy, always packed with faithful.
I happened to observe the women in prayer, their devotion is enviable, it seems that they go into a trance, their prayer is genuine, there are many women around me, but it is as if each of them was alone with God, this authentic faith, I'm sorry for not having kept ... was a very moving experience.
Then we deliberately lost among the colors, sounds and smells of the bazaars, aimlessly, without the hassle of having to buy, but only to observe, listen without being noticed, for a moment I forgot everything and I was really happy. Returning
we bought fruit and water are 15.00 and we allow ourselves a little rest.
Here are a few restaurants, it is low season, many are closed, then we do not like the Syrian cuisine is too greasy.
E 'was great to get lost here, look at the total quiet of its inhabitants, including people being so polite and discreet, ready to lend a hand if we needed, without ever bothering you.
For dinner we found a luxurious restaurant in front of the mosque, the usual mix of grilled meats paid, in this case, handsomely, about 8 € per person.
We made a few purchases, now everything is made in China or India, these two countries are conquering the world.
The population is very active and very quiet at the same time, women have a key role in the management of the family who seems very strong here. Thursday July 1
last visit to Syria: Bosra.
A beautiful site that is poorly defined. Because even a perfectly preserved over the centuries, especially the theater was used as a deposit and then arrived intact to this day.
remains now is to arm ourselves with patience and head towards the border with Jordan. First
Syria to get out of control, detailed, bureaucratic exhausting paid 500 Syrian liras. According
control to enter Jordan and here the thing, if it can be even longer, but tell us, this route is used by pilgrims who head to Mecca, the coaches are everywhere.
Fortunately, many branches have organized, for the pilgrims, for individual travelers, for foreign diplomats ... (A stop at the office of the change, even here there is to be paid ... we pay, the bureaucracy is a spectacle to observe, when you are on vacation ...)
so we're quick enough, our passport and passed between hands of several employees, if they all passed and read the page spread, the last to apply for a visa and then became the location back then we were back in the hands of our passport stamped with our beautiful view. Meanwhile we were doing this procedure, other employees who have checked the luggage, the hann oaperte and while we were in the office, things like crazy!
But all our ways we have preferred not buy time, we must wait for the driver, he is an ordinary Syrian ...
After a long wait under a blazing sun, here finally get the coveted driver.
First visit in Jordan: Jerash, a site worth seeing, even here the degree of preservation is remarkable. Walking through its streets, imagine the people who thronged the streets now deserted, as if they were thinking gone yesterday, see the new town near the ruins, so life goes on, the old and new so close ...
few more miles and we are in Amman. At first glance it seems a chaotic city, they are building a lot, the sovereign is an enlightened person, Jordan was another wonderful surprise, so modern, a modern fleet.
Our driver does not know the city that leaves us and take a taxi, the taxi driver does not know the location of our hotel, it attempts to ... After several rounds, talking with a lot of transport of his passion in cycling, he manages to hit the right hotel, but no spring. His passion for cycling has found fertile ground in Dom, too fond of that sport ... tells us that it was working in Kuwait, which had a titanium bike, which competed ... but then was called from the family home to get married and forget the bike ....
finally ... let us go. Very
error, we stayed at the hotel and we had dinner here, brought us a plate "NANSAFF" rice served with mutton boiled in a kind of broth and yogurt, good! Then we realized in the days following, that Amman is a nice city, even if it is modern, even though it has historic monuments, it is pleasant to wander in its beautiful streets.
Even Jordan, with my mobile phone TIM I have no problems sending and receiving messages to and from Italy, a wonderful invention!
Friday July 2
Our new driver Jordan is a very serious and professional person.
First visit: Madaba here is a greek-orthodox church dedicated to St. Giorgio its mosaics are a major bill, the frescoes. Here too, the faith is true, the faithful who enter are motivated by a genuine religion, I miss that.
We continue to Mount Nebo, from these heights Moses saw the promised land, from these heights today, in clear days, you can see the rooftops of Jerusalem, we are also very close to Bethlehem, we are at a crucial point for all three monotheistic religions, hence even Pope John Paul II prayed for peace among peoples and religions. On top
a church, run by Franciscan friars is under construction, was knocked down that little was no longer able to accommodate all the faithful who pray here every year.
And then there was the sea.
Here we are soaking in the Dead Sea. Its waters are very salty to keep a person afloat, we arrived here at 12:00, the sun beating down, the burn has been secured. You can not walk barefoot on the sand out of the water. Many people, women. Some in bichini, some in full costume sometimes punished, some with the black dress that Muslims are also used for swim.
After the beach, to get up off the salt is required to be washed in the freshwater pool. The central beach has been built here is modern, employing many people, I like it! We're going
Wady Musa, a small program for the visit out of Karak, a medieval fortress that is of worth visiting. Here we are in
Wady Musa. The name of the new city of Petra will be visiting tomorrow.
E 'very touristy, restaurants and hotels are everywhere, prices are expensive.
We have dinner with soups, kebabs and the beer for a tot. € 15 per person.
Saturday July 3rd I am writing sitting comfortably in a tent in the middle of Wadi Rum. A fairytale landscape around me.
I'm in a tented camp that can accommodate up to 600 people, the curtains are fixed to one or two places, there are toilets, showers with no water problems, the restaurant is warm and well-equipped camp.
This morning we visited Petra. The mythical.
along the canyon seen many times on TV, step on this land so famous and finally realizing that there really, finally, after about 800 meters walk, a glimpse of the jewel of Petra.
It 's true, the shivers run down my spine ... despite the heat that melts.
The course is very easy, only takes a few minutes, about a fortnight, but from the first site is still plenty to see, you should devote at least 3 days in this area, we have not visited in four hours!
However, we have been busy, legs and shoulders until we arrived at the monastery, less famous but in my opinion, as good. The table says that it takes about 1 hour and a quarter, we took us 35 minutes. but even if you are not a walker you should be up here.
The whole area is open to visitors early in the morning and closed the evening at 16.00, I can not understand how they knew that in the evening are all out before you close ...
seems impossible, but here in the tent camp is all a trill of mobile phones, in the desert! The hotel
Wady Musa was not much, was the only below expectations, the tents in the desert here, however, are beyond my expectations. For dinner, quickly organized a buffet worthy of a good restaurant, complete with a barbecue.
It 'been a rewarding experience. After dinner, watching the stars, enjoying a delicious orange, we were still in good company, listening to music played with string instruments, not to mention an atmosphere so as not to ruin the magic.
In our tent we were very comfortable, was now a little hot but then cooled well.
In the distance you could hear the wolves howling and barking dogs in the field, it was a good concert, conductor's majesty of the wind! Sunday July 4
The Japanese who were housed at the camp last night withdrew early, just after dinner, early morning, about 4:30 they started to make noise, perhaps thought they were alone, these Japanese, some that are strange, even I'd wanted to go take pictures with the light of dawn, but he was too well ...
Before breakfast in the shower, smooth the water is not lacking in the desert. Breakfast
as the best restaurant, coffee, tea, toast, jam, cookies, salads, fruit etc..
now take on the last hike: the Wady Rum. We have a car off the road for two hours, far too little, let's start, the car is open so as to have a total view of the landscape that flows, if I had to choose a place where he spent the entire time I have left this would be it!
The mountains have beautiful colors, all shades of red are found here, at every turn you expect to see an exit elf.
As I contemplated the point from which Lorence of Arabia is party to win Aqqaba, a woman and her flock of sheep suddenly appeared and disappeared just as quickly ... swallowed by the desert ...
should devote to this at least a week, trekking, climbing or just a nice walk in search of graffiti ancient inscriptions in the primordial red rocks.
Back in Amman, about 300 km. But the road is good and fast. We're back at the hotel, this trip was a gift, a gift, at times I even forgot and I was happy. I have never forgotten, however, my lovely niece Julia, I dedicate to you this beautiful journey with the hope that all may walk the paths of the earth !!!!!!!!!!!!
July 5 Monday
we. The Amman airport welcomes us, the plane is on time, within a few hours we will be at home. Farewell Farewell Syria
♥ Jordan!
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