Travel in Uzbekistan in July 2009
what we saw:
Tashkent:
Amir Temur Square, Independence Square
,
Old City part of Tashkent with Khast-Imom Complex and Chor-Su bazaar, Applied Arts Museum
.
Nukus Art Museum Visit with Russian and Uzbek art,
State Museum.
Khiva
Ichan-Qala fortress. In Ichan-Qala fortress visit Kunya-Arc, Sayeed Alauddin mausoleum, medrese Arab-Mukhamadkhan, mosque Oq-Masjid, medrese Hodjan Berd-Biya, Shirgazikhan, Abdullakhan, Juma mosque, medrese Allakulikhan, Toshkhovli palace, Pakhlavan Makhmud mausoleum, minaret Islom-khodja.
Bukhara
Visit Samani dynasty mausoleum,
Arc Fortress,
Chashma-Ayub,
Kalon ensemble, medrese Miri-Arab, Magoki-Attori mosque, medrese Ulugbek and Abdulazizkhan, trade domes, Lyabi Hauz complex, medrese Chor-Minor, Chor-Bakr and Bakhoutdin Naqshbandi mausoleum.
Shakhrisabz
Ak-Saray palace,
mausoleum of Jakhongir and Omar-Shaykh,
mausoleum Dorut-Tilovat where conqueror Tamerlane’s father and his spiritual tutor are buried,
Kok-Gumbaz mosque.
Samarkand
Registan Square,
ruins of Bibi-Khanum Mosque,
Shakh-Zinda necropolis, Gur-Emir mausoleum
,
Ulugbek observatory,
Afrosiyob museum, central bazaar in Samarkand
Fergana Valley
Khudoyar-khan Palace,
Djam Mosque,
Kamol-Kazy madrassas,
Dahman Necropolis-Shakhon and Madirakhan
address of tour operators in Tashkent:
Sevara Izrailbekova
Travel Consultants Ltd.
Advantour
Mirabad-1 St., 47th
Tashkent, Uzbekistan 100070
Tel:
+998 71 150 3020 Fax: +998 71 150 3021
Our hotel: Hotel
: Grand Tashkent in Tashkent;
;
Grand Tashkent Hotel
A. Kahhara str. 57
Tashkent, 100047
Uzbekistan
Tel: 998 712 54 27 96
998 97 405 26 77
Hotel: Jipek Joli in Nukus;
Hotel Jipek Joli
Rzaev kochasi 4
Nukus 142000
Karakalpakstan
Uzbekistan
Tel: 998 61 222 11 00
Fax: 998 61 222 85 00
Hotel: Malika Khiva;
Address of the hotel Malika Khiva:
P. Kori kochasi 19 A,
Khiva, Uzbekistan
Tel/fax: + 998 6237 58 618
Hotel: Minzifa in Bukhara;
Hotel Minzifa
Eshoni Pir kochasi 63
Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Tel / fax: 998 65 224 56 28
Hotel: Kamila in Samarkand;
26 Artyom Street Hotel Kamila Samarkand
Uzbekistan Tel: +998 357 345 3662
Hotel: Asia Fergana;
of Address The Hotel Asia Fergana
Navoi kochasi 26 A
Fergana, Uzbekistan
Tel: 998 732 24 52 21
Fax: 998 732 24 80 05
Uzbekistan
Good luck in 2009! Friday, July 3
Flight Nice-Taskhent
Uzbeka Here in the capital!
the counter in Nice, this time, I took a nice hit of fifite
^ 's our first trip organized without the support of an Italian agency.
Through Expedia we bought the airline tickets was easy. We have also chosen places on board, by e-mail we have sent the confirmation ... all very easy! But
to visit the country also needed a visa. The "RomanaSocialTour" has run the practice. It 'been easy. And 'Just call the agency and the "TNT TRACO, these have come at home to withdraw the passports, we were delivered at home, after about a week, with the visa, the payment was made in cash and cash : As simple as that! But the counter
us some difficulties: Today is July 2, our visa is dated July 3, with a few phone calls will fix everything, in fact we will arrive in Uzbekistan on July 3, so it should be okay. The flight
"Aeroflot2 was quiet. The controls are very finicky and not just for luggage, it calms me. The stop in Moscow has risen rapidly, about two hours, between laps in the "Duty Free" to control the prices of Vodka! And finally ...
Tashkent.
we got off the plane, now you have to leave the airport.
Surprise: Two Red Cross offers us a mercury thermometer, let us all in a row, with the arm bent, a few meters forward and two other Red Cross withdraw the thermometer, the temperature control ... and if someone had a fever!?! better not think about it!
Passport control: exhausting procedure, I had read that there was a lot of patience, then we put in the queue ... we can not do anything else.
All right, I was worried about the visa is OK!
The beauty is now: we must build a kind of disembarkation card: the modules are all in Cyrillic! We are desperate, not only us but the other tourists. Unexpectedly, an employee who comes screaming like a street vendor offers modules written in English, needless to say it was stormed! We must write their own generals, and even those who have dollars or euros. And this is done!
The car and our driver are waiting for us and within minutes we reach the hotel: Grand Tashkent, located near the airport. Just enough time to hand over their passports, changing a little bit of money, $ 50 ... but so is the equivalent Sum, give us only cuts from 1000 Sum (then discover that there are no cuts above) can not put them in my wallet, I go for the bag, we break your bags and go. We take a taxi, which Sum for 3000, about two euro, takes us to the center, right in the "Independence Square".
From here, from the heart of Tashkent part of our exploration.
This city was a surprise, a pleasant surprise, especially its inhabitants, I did not expect such warmth and a lot of sympathy, asking us where we are from, so they start to sing "The Italian" by Toto Cotugno, apparently there is a celebrity, well known throughout the Italian football, all our teams are much more knowledgeable than me about it.
Our wandering, looking a bit '. It leads us to the market, a huge bazaar, miles of stalls, miles of rivers of goods and people. The most striking the meat market: butchers, dozens of butchers: slicing, cutting, sawing, breaking, wrap, skinned, cut tons of meat ... ... and does not feel stink, but smell of good meat!
I do photos, movies, people greet me and wants to get into the frame, when he knows that his portrait will be up in Italy seems even more happy.
It 's almost time to go, we meet with "ADVANTOUR" Tashkent agency that organizes the tour, we contacted on the Internet, letting ourselves be guided more by instinct, we have not sent a single penny. But Sevara, the girl we dealt with here, has already confirmed all hotels and even domestic flight Tashkent-Nukus.
But we need to return another taxi as we look around, a man of at least 150 kg. She asks us if we want a taxi of course! I show the ticket the hotel, I do not know if she can not read or do not know where he is, but does not give up, starts off and leaves. He stops in front of the city's most luxurious hotel, I think he made this argument: Italian = = grand luxury hotel! Noo! When he realizes that we are not staying there, bleaching, does not know what to do, it stops, asking passers-by, are starting to call ... 11.40 ... and time passes, we have an appointment at 13.00, I am no longer in the skin, I know what to do.
The driver continues to call, keep asking and keep on turning, melon and peaches bought at the market, are maturing in the heat of the car ...
a barrel of c.. O! While he is speaking to Phone does not know who, coincidentally pass in front of our hotel: Stop! we arrived, we pay, it also has a cheek to ask us twice the agreed ... but we do not do debates.
Just enough time to take back a little, eat our already melon and our driver is ready to take us Sevara. The office
dell'Advantour is a true ministry, very big, she is very young and very pretty. Welcomed us, prepared everything, we get our documents, including airline tickets for today, give her his fee, presents us with the guidance that will accompany us to go around the city.
It 's a Russian girl, speaks English, we do not speak very well, but as always, with a little good will we can understand each other. With
you can visit the complex of mosques and madrasas, were all closed during the Soviet era, some adapted to deposit other stables, certain that this period should not have been an easy time for the faithful, our guide explains that the madrassas, religious schools are not only, but here are taught all subjects, there is also a kind of school of crafts, so that children are not brought much to study here, learn a trade
... back to the hotel, we are exhausted, we did not stop even for a moment, we decide to dine at the hotel: meatballs, French fries and a beer for a tot. Sum of 18,000 which is about € 10 - € 5 each. Saturday, July 4
Tashkent-Nukus
Here! They have not called!
We asked the alarm for five o'clock, but we were not called. we must go to the airport, luckily I woke up in time: never trust!
not find any hotel, leave the keys and go ... The "Great Teshkent" leaves something 'to be desired.
The flight to Nukus is quiet, although the plane is prehistoric, not very nice, is a propeller plane: an Ilyushin! When they finally go down, I could not wait to get out of that thing, I decide to photograph, but a guard immediately approached me, I "suggest" to remove the photo .. . I can not help but wonder: will fear that we copy the model, or will not be around to know what kind of planes they fly?!
passport control, is fast, we are very few. Out should be our driver ... no! Wait, it will be late ...
meantime we are surrounded by some taxi drivers and a guy who screams: "hotel, hotel"
are disoriented. Finally we make a decision, the worst! Take a taxi. We see the name of the hotel, he nods to know and understand everything and we're off. We leave before another hotel: could not read Latin characters.
call another taxi, maybe this is more awake, in fact the hotel is right! The "Jipek Joli"
will be waiting for the boy before and our driver, is mortified: he is asleep. The boy was the hotel, when he saw that the driver would not start he came to pick us, but we have not understood. Ride and keeps repeating that "Advantour" has two drivers in Khiva and the other one is sleeping!
We are in the "Karakalpakstan" autonomous region, here speak Kazakh, are different from Uzbekhi. Are darker and their features are more Mongolians.
Our driver is a native of this region, people are very quiet, maybe too much!
Today the program includes a visit to the Aral Sea, how many things I read on this site, all negative. Now, there is no doubt that the lake has dried up, where are we now to find water still need to travel about 200 km. Sure, it's distressing to see the ships abandoned, rusty penano on the sand. But coming up here I saw acres and acres of cultivated bells, mostly cotton, dozens of people working, many people with this choice can hope for a future, and then once at school we were taught that "nothing is created, nothing is destroyed, the water evaporated one part will come from elsewhere, but not lost, but perhaps, being by nature an optimist, I always look on the bright side of things ... it's just nothing negative, nothing positive is just! We stopped in
Moynak, a passing meal, a little place not bad ... but the rice was good, especially when cooked!
We returned to Nukus, our room is outstanding: beautiful, and we are in a three star
But we came up here to see the room, then just enough time to wash their hands and go, we are already in the street a few steps and find the market, even here the people are friendly and helpful, it's nice to get carried away with color , sounds and colors of the market heart of every city in the world.
a restaurant frequented by young people attracts our attention: we enter.
Order: kebabs are excellent, made with minced beef, seasoned with garlic, salt, pepper and spices cooked on the grill but I still would like to suggest that there are over ... they have finished everything, we also show how it is very late for dinner, 20:30 ... here are the people gets up late, dinner at 18.00 and goes to bed early, I like it!
But we are not satisfied, we return to the market, a whole part is devoted to "grill", we trust and order other two skewers, the place is ... there are no adjectives to describe it, but the skewer are good here too! We were able to spend between the first and the second restaurant, the beauty of 4 € per person, including gratuities.
Sunday, July 5-Khiva Nukus
Visit the museum of Soviet art, it was a really interesting visit. I did not expect!
was founded in 1966 by Igor Vitalyevich Savitsky, a Russian artist-archaeologist who do not even know existed. But apparently it was a very important person.
has collected many works by artists unknown in the West, but they knew what Western artists were inspired, their works recall the great: Monet, Picasso, Van Gogh, Miro, Chagall, etc.. but during the occupation Russian these works were not like the regime, which wanted only works that portrayed the man in his strength, joy and pride to serve the party. So he had created a gathering of artists, so to speak Alternative hiding scheme, they could disseminate their works.
Now these works, revalued, are very important to understand that even if they gagged, bound, oppressed people will always find a way to be free!
Another section of the museum, dedicated to the archaeological excavations supervised by Savitsky, here I discovered some new things. In particular, the civilization of Khorasmia, a semi-nomadic civilization, and in particular struck me their jewelry and their clothes: modern, and the tissue type "jeans", apparently was a discovery of Genoa!
are drawn from a model, there is represented the terrain, mountains, rivers etc.. apparently the Aral Sea is "fairly" recently, it would be formed only in 1500 AD and the river, the Amu Darya (river capricious) has often changed its course forever! Even more recently it is not a tributary of the Aral Sea.
Along the road that leads us to Khiva cross km. And miles. Campaigns planted with cotton, wheat, sunflower, vegetables of all kinds, is a dive show in all this green, farmers seem to ants in the immensity of the fields ...
All of this thanks to the river "capricious" how many families can live with its water ...
Khiva
The Citadel is a must see!
We are staying at Malika, a beautiful hotel even though it only has 3 stars, like any other of our tour.
It 's definitely one of the best sites I've seen so far!
The superb architecture of Central Asia is shown in all its splendor, the green and turquoise tiles are a joy to behold. For at least two hours, hanging out I always find new angles, new shots, new details, new effects of light, every corner is a discovery.
Here the people are helpful and happy.
For dinner we have given away a luxurious restaurant, rice, lamb kebab beer for a tot. Sum of 19,000, about € 8 or € 4 each.
The sun is still high, we do not want to go to the hotel, we extend the walk, passing a restaurant, we encounter a wedding: guests will be at least 300. The table is long, on the one hand, the elderly, men and women, composed and serious, on the other hand, young boys and girls very uninhibited, especially girls. Some girls left the table are to us, they invite me to dance, but, dear me, I can not, their dance for me "Uzbekistan", I prefer film, when he became aware more exhibitionist, more sensual.
this people amazes me more and more, their joie de vivre is contagious! Monday, July 6
Today we visit, we meet our guide, we will explain in Italian! Our dear
Sevara has given us the leadership in Italian: thank goodness, now the explanation was very important to follow a conversation in English for about seven hours, it was hard. It 's a young boy very easy, has a remarkable property of language and with it the time has flown by.
Khiva is a small town museum, its architectural beauty are remarkable. He was also a hub of slave trade (page painful), now this situation has allowed the realization of all these works, we had a lot of free labor! As always, history is made up of pain, blood and tears! But we would not see such splendor!
Despite the Russian people are very religious.
Youths, however, are separating, unless the attending Koranic schools, which are not only religious schools, but thorough studies. The most beautiful Madrassa has been transformed by the Russians in prison and is now a hotel ...
not imagine this city so beautiful! The grandeur of its monuments is comparable only to Konya, Turkey, majolica inebriate, give almost dizzy, as much beauty, how much work!
even nicer for the almost complete absence of tourists, this fact is considered low season because of the heat, but we're lucky, this year is not particularly hot. Many buildings
wear a religious symbol composed of three triangles fitted together. The guide explains that there are signs that refer to Zoroastrianism
"" "Zoroastrianism was for centuries the dominant religion throughout most of Central Asia, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, to the rapid growth of Islam in the seventh century . The steady decline in the following centuries saw a sharp change of direction in the nineties, characterized by an unexpected and sudden growth of the Zoroastrian religion. IlZoroastro takes name from its founder (Zarathustra) who lived in Persia roughly between the seventh and sixth centuries BC "" "
I'm going to study this religion, I am interested especially from a historical point of view.
More than a religion seems to me a philosophy of life, very interesting!
With a great sense of envy (positive, though) we met a couple of French young people are doing around the world by bike, I travel for five months now, planning to stay out for another year, before returning to France through the United States ... Since
Khiva is beautiful we decided to conclude our stay giving us a dinner in the restaurant most beautiful and luxurious hotel in the city! And 'situated in a former madrassa, charming décor is very nice, looks like a museum. We ordered soup, skewers of beef, watermelon and beer. Tot 28,500 SUM = $ 18 or $ 8 apiece. Tuesday, July 7
Bukhara In the morning we prepare to greet Khiva. With a bit of nostalgia.
We drive about 700 km to reach Bukhara, cross the
Kyzylkum once desert steppe, but today is widely cultivated through the channels a lot of people have jobs, most crops are cotton, as they say here: our white gold. Do not throw anything out of the plant, any part has its use. After the stretch, the road becomes straight grown, almost mesmerizing, I'm afraid that the driver falls asleep at some points ...
the Amu Darya river marks the border with Turkmenistan, is very close, I stopped to photograph the coastline.
Around noon we stopped in a place like "Central Asia" and for you to rest a moment and after about 8 hours of travel we are in Bukhara. Our hotel is the
Minzifa.
we break your luggage and here we are, as usual in the street.
Here the heat is really unbearable, are 16.00 but it's really hot! Apart from the area
monumental, even as Bukhara Khiva, are strange city, do not have a true center, so everything is very spread out and is very disorganized.
Monuments are superlatives, but we are very tired, we refer everything to tomorrow.
Now we need a restaurant. We have dinner with soup, lamb kebabs, beer, bread tot. SUM 30 000 = $ 19 = $ 9.5 per person in the most luxurious restaurant of Bukhara.
back to the hotel we felt that there were riots in the 'Xinjiang, we visited this beautiful country last year.
As they pass the images on your TV I see the cities I've seen. Finding sent those beautiful landscapes theater hours of pain I am very sad. I never want to see these images. I will not go into the details of who is right and who is wrong, but because you can never find a peaceful settlement? Wednesday, July 8
What a day!
We met the guide, a young girl who speaks Italian!
Again back to the ancient religion.
When the country was conquered by Muslims, to convince the population halved the taxes on those who had converted to Islam. For convenience and for taxation, embraced the new religion, but never forgot completely Zoroastrianism. Even today, many ceremonies are infected by the ancient creed.
Then we asked what is the relationship between Uzbeks and Russians: it seems that older people miss the Soviet occupation, say they feel more secure, but will not be that older people always wishing the past? It is not simply to reminisce about their youth?
Things to see in Bukhara are really a lot ... we walked all day.
the Summer Palace, built by the last emir is absolutely fabulous, too bad that the "poor" had no way to live a long time! Although his reign lasted little: only 9 years old.
Our guide tells us that the Russians have never been present too: the Russians have arrived en masse in 1966 when there was a violent earthquake, arrived to help the people and many, then, are left, will be!
However, he says, that many women would like to thank the Bolshevization because they have lifted the burka for women. I got to see this garment near a prison train .. true repentance. Terrible! They started to wear it to 9 years: not to believe.
It tells us that in the Fergana Valley is still possible to meet women who use the burqa ... even if today is not an imposition, but a free choice: Uzbekistan is a secular state!
are beautiful caravanserai, as I would have liked to come through here a century ago, see the caravans arrived. Hear the cries of the traders, braying camels, breathe the dust of the adventure ... but I think I would see little, in fact women were not allowed to travel with the caravans!
Now everything is a great center of souvenirs for tourists are not very demanding, but we must look beyond, the only way to grasp yet that little bit of charm that has resisted mass tourism.
short stop for a quick lunch, a broth and a cup of tea. Our guide tells us that even if you have taken off their burkas, not much has changed, can not, girls, traveling alone, can not enter a bar alone, their lives are still subjugated by men, and yet we explains that his decision to make the tourist guide, has effectively ended any possibility of marriage, no one wants to marry a woman who was into contact with strangers ... but maybe one day things will change here as well.
We continue our tour, we stop to look at the mausoleum Chor-Bakr is beautiful!
A simple construction, brick, five different shapes assembled form of geometric designs strikes me the architectural purity. He tells us that when Genghis Khan came from these parts destroyed almost everything, apart from that tomb revered by the population, had been hidden under a mountain of sand, when the leader went thought it was a natural hill.
The guide is well prepared we spent 8 hours, 8 hours a lockout that have flown away in a moment.
I find more signs Passage of the Russians, but it was all erased, where there were statues of Lenin, now there are statues of Timur Fa ...
really hot: too hot, but we did not lose a single moment, there is too much to see!
This country is beyond my expectations. Very interesting
preparation that a good Muslim must face before going to Mecca. Should go to a mosque in Samarkand or Bukhara for 40 days, simply live without eating meat to be purified, after which it can wear a white dress and begin the pilgrimage.
We continue our tour. I note with pleasure that there is a large domestic tourism, and much will to live, the restaurants are crowded with locals. Thursday, July 9
Shakhisabz to leave Bukhara, the birthplace of Tamerlane, there is not much to see but still worth a stop. The palace of Tamerlane, the mausoleum of Omar and Jakhongir-Shaykh, the mausoleum of Dorut-Tilovat, Tamerlane's father and his adviser.
We climbed up on top of the building, from here you have a wonderful view.
The people of Uzbekistan is a happy people, but we do understand that they are now happy only after independence ...
Here we see many couples who are secluded in tourist areas, as we did in Sanremo ... sure you do not find relatives or friends ready to spy!
We allow ourselves a break: a green tea and broth while our guide to enjoying a Coca-Cola ...
Here we get to see a married couple. With her classic white dress, he with the classic dark suit and the ever Limousine, very long!
They call us to make some pictures with them, and meanwhile we do explain: today is the day of the lunch, yesterday was the day of presentations and civil marriage, tomorrow is the day the religious ceremony wearing traditional dress and finally, the groom , will be together!
continue the trip and we head to Samarkand.
Hotel Kamila is in the old part, is not much, but it is clean and this is enough for me!
The city is very Soviet, it is almost nothing left, at first sight is disappointing that despite the appeal to every traveler.
But you only turn a little and is the market, then we are lucky to get in front of the mosque of Bibi-Khanun at sunset: a feast for the eyes and the heart: to be here where the past is history seems like a dream .
The city is an enormous project, the government is modernizing the country.
An encounter with a cop makes us think. In the square
"Registan" the heart of Samarkand, a policeman comes to us, it seems very happy, asked us if we are Italian, we propose the return of the minaret, assures us The view from the top is breathtaking. Dom is almost convinced, I'm a little less, but he insists ... I hate the indoors, this minaret is very close!
But the alternative of not seeing, possibly, the view is too strong. When we are almost there, the cop asks us for money, lots of money ... let's back off! Let us fly! The thing is a bit strange, better not to risk!
It 'too late, we are tired and hungry, we enter a restaurant, inside there are only tourists are not very confident ... but we decide to risk it and the courses are tourist, not too good, soup, two skewers of bones with a few pieces of meat, beer for a tot. Sum of 18,000. Friday, July 10
We meet our guide, a very prepared, do not dwell at length on technical details, dates, like the other guides, but speaks in great depth on the Islamic religion, I am increasingly convinced that no more we are so different, we have a lot in common. If there is friction, I believe, are just politicians, we should understand these things!
She also confirms that the choice of working for the tourism has effectively closed the road of marriage, and now at age 24 has lost all hope ...
Samarkand is worth seeing, if only his visit is worth the journey .
Registan Square, or the "sandy place" every city uzbeche have one but this is special, being here seems to live a dream. The blue domes
merges with the sky. The purity of line charms.
The mosque of Bibi-Khanum was reduced to a ruin, It 's been done a remarkable job of restoration! The state is recovering its treasures that have been abused by the Soviets, reduced to stables or warehouses, are now rising and the job is perfect.
Lunch and dinner at the finest restaurants, Samarkand if he deserves: the menu is always the same: soups, salads, tomatoes, kebabs, beer, price is always more or less the same, between 18.000 and 22.000 Sum.
Many marriages here in Samarkand, is a great city, today is Friday, tell us that tomorrow and Sunday we will see many more. I intufolata among the guests and I got to take a picture with them, is more surprising to see the joy that these people have in their hearts. By TIM
my phone I was able to keep in touch with home, always without problems, text messages cost me 89 euro to send and to receive nothing. Instead I've never called: too expensive by cell phone too much complicated by the public.
The owner of the hotel invites us to visit the part of winter is very cold, and then the structures must have the appropriate features. Saturday, July 11
We Shakh-Zinda, the necropolis, which was something I had read and overly nice ... in fact the case.
E 'without doubt one of the best sites I've seen so far!
The renovations are superb. A staircase greets us, telling us to count the steps and remember the number: they are 36.
Some men attract my attention, I ask if I can take pictures, I'm excited. We are told that all they have is thanks to their President. E 'moving my affection for him.
A grandmother with her grandchild in her arms wants to be photographed.
This site is a cemetery, but is also a place of worship and meeting, but keeps the dead does not seem a place of death.
go down the stairs, we hope, for us the steps are always 36, welcomed the guidance, we have, in your opinion, the true heart!
Afrosiyob The museum, the history of Samarkand is told here. Really interesting.
For dinner there is a really nice restaurant. The menu, always the same, but we managed to spend 34.000 Sum, about € 17 was the most expensive place!
A lot of local people, a lot of music and many dancers. The provocative and tell us are winding their movements are specifically asking ...
Sunday, July 12
Today, only transfer it back to Tashkent, tomorrow we leave for the Valley Fergana. We are shooting themselves in the city, sit, sip a drink and watch the world go by in front us: announced that the population is obese, especially women. You do not see beggars or undernourished people.
In Italy, Uzbekistan is a country described as sad, unhappy, but it was a pleasant surprise!
control by the police is discreet, less invasive than in Italy.
We never had the feeling of being controlled by turning the cities.
It starts Monday, July 13 to Fergana!
About 400 km. Very nice street. Here, the controls are tight and continuous.
The Fergana Valley is a paradise! And green, wonderful climate, beautiful temples.
Unfortunately there is a bit of trouble. There are fundamentalists. Some confusion has successfully forced the state to close the major Islamic schools and mosques. A pity! The whole area is closed to journalists, there are many prohibitions: you can not take pictures, you can not shoot. This rule applies to almost all places.
People are not very helpful, does not give the impression of being happy. Turning to the market, they asked me if I was the "BBC", my answer no, I understand their reaction, it seemed neither happy nor disappointed. But despite all this, the Fergana Valley is worth seeing! A
Kokand visiting the building Khudoyar-Khan, beautiful! When he arrived here
Genghis Khan, the population did not want to embrace Islam, were very strong, are now the strongest!
The city of Fergana is the most Soviet cities uzbeche. Team and with avenues of huge dark and deserted, but you just walk on down into the bazaar. Always engaging despite the people here is colder!
The standard of living here is higher, perhaps that is why? They have more things to defend? Tuesday, July 14
now we are already on the way back!
These days are flown!
last visit: A factory silk.
I thought it was the usual place for tourists idiot ... I thought that the last day you want to see us go to a boutique ... but it was very interesting.
parachute was an old factory, the machines are German, 1920.
The workers are all elderly, there are many machines and many mechanics.
A true working museum. Today
manufacture scarves.
It seems that the discovery of the silk has been random: a princess in the garden drinking tea under a mulberry tree. A bug fell into the cup and collect the filament noticed that the poor animal had produced in the hot liquid ...
Even out of the Fergana Valley, the controls are very finicky.
has formed a long queue of cars.
I leave this earth with the sight of yellow fields of sunflowers, the green cotton fields, the snow on the mountains, the blue sky ... a paradise.
Before going to the airport to greet pass Sevara, Thank you, his work was perfect, we would like to advise all its agencies.