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| xinjiang 2008 |
trip from Urumqi to Beijing in June 2008 through the Taklamakan
Xinjiang Autonomous Region People's Republic of
China.
bordered by the Tibet Autonomous Region, Qinghai, Gansu, Mongolia to the east.
Russia to the north
Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan and the West Kashimr.
Its name means "new frontier" but its inhabitants prefer to call their therapeutic "East Turkistan"
Its area is 1,650,000 square km and has a population of 19 million inhabitants. We
. Here we are in Nice.
course after the bad experience of yesterday, my mood is not the best. A scary thing, if I were superstitious would be a tragedy. However, even so I was very shaken. The reason
from time to worry? Simple, I broke the coffee pot. I can not explain how he could do, but the effect was awesome. The kitchen is practically all smeared with coffee grounds.
It is found everywhere, and I had to go away, I had no time to clean, so now I'm here at the airport, sitting around doing nothing, waiting ... and thinking at home, thanking the lord that I have not done anything!
We put in the queue, Dom (my husband) and I, we have an electronic ticket, every year is different. He approached an employee, explains that you do not need to queue, we can do well by themselves, are the machines on purpose! I look at him straight in the eye, but meanwhile I think this says seriously? It 's all true, in fact, seeing our embarrassment does he die, for this year is gone, so next year certainly will study some other deviltry.
The trip to Beijing will depart at 11.10, are 9.00, waiting trying to relax, while I look around: how many people on the move!
controls are finicky, thank goodness, it seems a waste of time, but nobody is complaining, thank you all very happy indeed.
time munching a sandwich absurd offered by the company and lands already in London, I traveled to the side of a giant of 200 pounds, at least, and continued to rise! The landing was a little violent ...
Airport London frightening, gigantic, exaggerated, and they are still huge magnifying ...
There are people everywhere, there are those who sleep on the floor waiting to go his way, there's that stuff themselves at the restaurant ...
The flight to Beijing takes at least 8 hours. It seems impossible, but from London in the late afternoon, we have not seen the sun, spending a lot to the north, the day is almost endless. We land on time, the new airport welcomes us, how? Outrageously beautiful! Its futuristic structure fascinates, it would be hours watching, sounds like science fiction but is actually quite real. We collect your luggage, take a train and we were in the "old" airport here I arrived 10 years ago, has now been downgraded for domestic flights. At 15, Beijing time, we have a flight to Urumqi. Once there was only desert, now the city is about 2,100,000 inhabitants, not to believe.
E 'the city ever further away from all the seas. The guide is already waiting for us, the bureaucracy is very slim since the last time I was here, we do soon. We welcome the girl who will present this huge city, is China, after the presentations is at pains to point out that here in Xinjiang breeds are all the same, the Chinese and the Uighurs have the same opportunities, attend the same school and get along very well , insists a lot on this. Place your bags go dinner, a superb Chinese restau, dinner is delicious and juicy, but we are very tired and very sleepy.
the morning visit to the Lake of Heaven, there to get a six-lane highway is almost over, soon reach even the hotels and all the structures of great taste that much like the Chinese, but for now apart from the ' highway everything is still intact. The first part we do with the car, the second on a bus and the third is optional: on foot or with a kind of electric bus. Of course we go on foot. The Chinese also are affecting their environment, or at least they try.
You can rent boats, we preferred to go around the lake along its banks. Lunch was a fairy tale, kebabs and other rice delicacies. In the afternoon visit to the Grand Bazaar, of course alone. I feel very tired and sleepy, the guide keeps asking me if I'm good ... the grand bazaar seems to breath fresh air and forget my problems and I dive in the colors and intoxicating scents, smells so strong and pervasive that attach on clothing and skin.
The ethnic groups are actually many, a true melting pot of races: Chinese, Uighurs, Asian former Soviet republics, Russia, a child's hair was blond and curly, the Chinese appearance, a real show!
The guide, China continues to emphasize that all go very well, that living together is nice and unites them the greatest respect, having a kind of positive character I want to believe. 19.30 am to 13.30
the home, we are at the airport, again, destination Kashgar, arriving after a flight of about 1.30, met the new guide, a young Uighur, we refer to all scans tomorrow.
First visit to the Karakul 3800 meters, the lake is at the foot of Mount Muztang of 7546 meters, called the father of ice mountains, the weather is beautiful: blue sky, white snow and red mountains , offer a feast for the eyes and peace for the spirit, the river that forms the lake will never in any sea, in fact it is lost in the desert.
Road and continues through the legendary Khunjerab Pass you can get in Pakistan, but now it is not advisable, this country is not safe for tourists, even though our guide tells us very optimistic and security in a year Pakistan will again secure. How I envy those travelers who were able to see this wonderful country before fundamentalism and terrorism, and ruin it so I hope that the guide is right, indeed I believe his words.
not meet anyone, camels graze happy, who knows maybe they will be free? I still like to think so. Kashgar has always been a strategic point for the caravan passes through here the legendary Silk Road trade is still flourishing. Everywhere coal mines, work that beast! I try to imagine the men inside those caves and the work they do and the danger they face ...
We are still, as if by magic into nothing materializes a checkpoint. Some military control us in detail the documents, visas, there are some beautiful shots I could make some shots ... I do not trust, where there are the military is better not to get noticed!
The weather was beautiful, now, unfortunately we are on the shores of the lake, the sky is covered, we can say goodbye to all the effects of light that we were promised, it is certainly fascinating to be here, but the cloudy water flattens making an expanse gray water: a real shame. Now for
lunch there are two possibilities: either you can dine at the restaurant by the lake, tourism and vegetarian. Or you stop by a lady who cooks the excellent soup sheep. It 'makes sense that we choose the lady and her soup.
The choice is right, because at this altitude there are no vegetables, so these must be imported, the sheep, but are kept together with the yak up the diet of local populations. The soup is very good, there's some mutton boiled onion and fresh bread to be dipped in the broth, the environment is very colorful, colorful rugs are the flooring and seating, colored cloths on the walls add more joy to the whole ' together, I like it!
The landlord and his family live on round breeding and serving tourists. The portion of soup and costs 20 yuen (20 euro cents) per serving ...
are already in the car for a few minutes and I realize I've forgotten my scarf from the lady, I am sorry, it was a memory of my mother, but now I can not go back, it will mean that the lady will remember me ...
On the way back we found ourselves face to face with a dust storm. Scary, looks like a wall, visible from far away, the road goes through it and you do not see anything. E 'worst of the fog, in fact we need to keep windows closed and despite everything we hear the dust that creeps in everywhere. The guide tells us that this is a exceptional phenomenon, but you would not think watching people. They are all very quiet, we can see them only when they are just a few meters from the car, even children, alone, follow the road with their bag of books, quiet, someone wearing a mask, others covered their faces with the handkerchiefs, a motorcyclist and his child immersed in this storm continue on their path ...
They are not alarmed, but for me it was a wonderful experience.
The effect is caused by the relentless wind, the dust rises, this is light and remains suspended and will continue to rise, while the other is added to darken the sun, like clouds, to remove the visual and breathing. You can already see from a distance, the sky takes on the color of the earth, and you see that comes close. In the most crucial time I thought of the caravans, and when they were in this situation, this area is always very joke, we walk through the ramifications of the Gobi Desert, which here joins the Taklimakan Desert. I wonder how many of these convoys were unable to overcome these spaces, I wonder how many people have swallowed this huge desert. And we must not forget that thanks to them that progress is continued, it has always been the cultural exchange has brought progress and economic exchange has brought wealth. I get angry like a hyena when I hear certain people, ignorant people who protest against globalization, This fact has always been, first touched a few countries, those known or available, and then what they do to protest? Using the Internet! You can not stop progress and development.
And then, if we have reached a good standard of living and the comforts we have, why should not they have them too? They should remain so at least we can go and see them? Does not seem right.
But returning to the storm has passed, we are out, but I assure you: it was scary. The
eat dinner in a Uighur restaurant, still nudols boiled sheep and wheat flour, almost pasta, yogurt and very acidic, as it should be no beer. Speaking
our guide will show his thoughts on the eyeglasses. I am forced to wear two pairs, for near and far, according to his theory is the pork that is lose sight, in fact, he points out that Muslims do not wear glasses because they see us very well, then you realize that the port two pairs laughing and asked me, "but how much you've eaten pork?"
Morning sightseeing tour of the city up to 11.00 there is nobody around that late risers.
the beautiful mausoleum of Apak Hoja Mazar, and also very beautiful in its history. We are always in Kashgar, in about 1640 arrived in these lands from Turchenistan Apak Hoja Mazar, has brought with him the cult of Mohammed that Islam first the entire population was Buddhist. He founded the madrasa, or Koranic school, married and had children, many of them. One of his sons, his father died, he built this mausoleum in memory of the parent. Currently 72 people buried here 5 generations.
In 1956 there was a terrible earthquake. The mausoleum was destroyed. The population is working to rebuild it, or rather the reconstruction began right here. Such was the devotion. The tiles that cover the entire building were baked in an oven 200km away. , Were brought up here from hand to hand, the streets were all torn up. I try to imagine a column of human 200km. But with all the goodwill I can not believe ... Externally
Recalls the monuments of Central Asia, all inside the sarcophagi, 72, each covered by brightly colored damask draperies, made all around the most important Apak, those of younger women, the youngest of the children still gives me a sense of awe ... how many people!
contemplating the majesty of the building, and relaxed on the availability of the guide I dare ask: "When I arrived the Chinese in Xinjiang?"
I know it's a useless question, on any history book would find the answer, but I had a vacuum of memory and having the opportunity to get answers without any effort ... I take this opportunity. The guide, which suddenly becomes serious, is a young boy, Muslim Uyghur, looks at me straight in the eye and spoke these words: "I wonder when the Chinese Xinjiang RELEASED? Go to any history book and find the answers you need, I'm not talking about politics! "
POLICY?? but I wanted to talk about history!
But shortly after he made his first coded message, confesses to being able to speak and understand English to Chinese.
For Muslims to prayer here on a Thursday, so I'm told, but also being very careful we could not even hear a muezzin, maybe the Chinese government tolerates the mosques but does not want too much noise? I dare not ask questions. Finally the long awaited
cattle market is held every Sundays at Kashgar.
not very crowded, I thought I find most confusing, honestly. I realize now that an entire wing is empty: the camel, in fact I am told that the exchange of these animals takes place in September, damn my Strelitzie ... it is their fault if the tour I had to make a June! In September, there are the nomadic Kyrgyz, sell their camels, after they have been exploited throughout the summer, the winter around here is very cold 20-30 degrees below zero, all the animals are sold unnecessary and then buy back at the beginning of next season. Wandering among cattle
I am in the area of \u200b\u200b"enough" all the ropes, saddles, bits e. .. whips are well exposed.
I approached by a seller and offers me a whip, I try to make him understand that I do not need. But him with his bright eyes shows me how I can use it: pointing to my husband and making the move to beat him on the legs, confirming my suspicion: Here ... The man has the power, but the woman in charge!
Very interesting to see the contract, even if you do not understand anything of what they said, but the gestures, the moves and the looks are universal, many years ago at the cattle market in the Piedmont VICOFORTE I saw the very same negotiations. The buyer and seller are face to face with the palm of your nose, and yell as loud as two people argue, when you finally find the agreement smiles and handshakes are waste, then look closely you understand who has the best deal, because that's the happier.
Uyghurs eat lots of meat: sheep, lamb, mutton, chicken, do not throw anything away, either skin or fat. Everything is cooked. In this market you can not see the Chinese in many neighborhoods do not see the Chinese seem to live separate lives, they walk side by side but their paths do not cross, ever. One thing that I could not explain, since we have lunch in Xinjiang, is always served at 15.00, then suddenly the guide reveals, they, the Uighurs, they follow different from those in Beijing, other than two hours , so when you are in Beijing 15.00 13.00 they are here for lunch so late, that's why the morning before 11.00 you can not see anyone around. Only
offices, trains and planes follow the official time.
The morning began so-so, I'm not too well, last night I slept little and badly, at 10.00 we have the appointment with the guidance. At 9.40 am knock at the door, is the maid to the plans, enter and search the entire room, we are here and look incredulous. Check everything carefully. We feel uncomfortable. It 's all right, Now he smiles and tells us we can go. These Chinese!
Today we are facing a very long stage, about 850 km. Through the desert. The road is very fast, very beautiful, but the limit permitted speed is 50 mph, there are often roadblocks, checks on checks, the last guide and the driver swearing in turkish, we do not understand but we will not ask questions, then we know the reason for this reaction: they want the military there is a fire extinguisher in the car, I understand them ... they are not ready for prevention.
For lunch we stopped at a little restaurant in an anonymous city, all Soviet-style apartment blocks, very ugly. In exchange, the meal is good pigeons to the grid. Continuing
meet an accident: a passer-by was hit by a motorcyclist. The poor fellow's head is bloody, is sitting by the roadside, it seems frightened and suffering, but there is no one around him, are all intent on observing the motion, to detect any damage to the bodywork or engine, here some human life has a different value, while the engines are valuable to understand should live here, however, observe without judging.
Today's visit was not very interesting, a mausoleum is the only site dedicated to a queen who wrote a poem. Perhaps the only interesting thing is political, that is the recognition by the Chinese Uighur of a poem, I notice that there is more tolerance ...
The city is not very interesting.
the road again, again deserted, nothing is right and nothing left.
The road is very smooth, very busy.
weather is warm enough and the sky is overcast.
Looking at a map, we realize to be between Tibet and and the desert of no return that the Taklimakan, in fact.
whole area is famous for forging steel, is the first activity.
In the afternoon we stopped near a river, and driving out a watermelon with his knife again, just bought, makes wafer and distribute it to all, delicious.
continued our journey. Every so often you come across an oasis, and as if by magic a lot of people appear from nowhere. I can not tell if they are natural oases. But knowing the Chinese, are quick, they do two channels and bring the water to many miles away.
Wherever possible, there are crops of poplar, are used for lumber.
Here we are in Hotan, Kashgar after the first city where the night. Other
coded message of the guide.
accompany us for dinner at a Chinese restaurant, says he thinks we want to change the menu. Okay. But the restaurant of his choice is a dump in the true sense of the word. Now if I were an oasis in the desert I'm not surprised, but we are in a huge city, Dom looks at me, I look at the guide, we are embarrassed. So he understands and laughs, there okay? Calls, then I bring in a Uighur restaurant ... the most luxurious I've ever seen! Entering
tells us amused "This is the restaurant of my people, that was a Chinese restaurant, since the difference?"
Hotan!
First round early in the morning in its streets.
's a typical city in Central Asia, there is a very historic city, it seems very modern, everything rebuilt. They are highly seismic zones and what is spared by the earthquake do not survive the Chinese. Wide sidewalks and streets huge buildings and skyscrapers, to think that until a few years ago she was just a great oasis in the desert. Wandering
there you are in Piazza del Popolo, every Chinese city has its own. E 'dominated by a giant statue of Mao that embraces a Uighur farmer, in memory of their deliverance from what ... then?
The interesting thing though is the building facing the square. It 'a building used as offices, on its roof is proudly displayed the logo of the nuclear devilry that is we can not understand. But what we see is very interesting. Are 8.30, all employees are there, before going to their respective offices are ... half an hour of exercise ... ... you'll see the Chinese taking over the world!
finished the exercise, proceed to the reading program of the day, all the work to be completed in 10 hours. Here's the difference between us and them, productivity and discipline!
We are in the driving, we must pledge to pay. In fact, in any country, if you driving the time comes that you must go into sad souvenir shop! It can not do without. Do not buy anything in these places, but so much so sometimes we have to. In this case, is a laboratory of jade. In the rivers of this area if it is so, the work here and sell it. So much for safety! The workers are all very young, the stone cut without any protection for either your eyes or your hands. Exposure: it is outrageously expensive. The prices are around one million, of the old lire ...
Then we go home to the river, given the price, if I had a jade ... I pay for my trip ...
But there is no history, there is nothing, but it is interesting to watch the crowd wandering, barefoot in the river bed with hope in your heart. Other
duty: the laboratory of silk ... now only tourist. The workers are all very old, when they see us start to get some work done, it's a symbolic thing ... how sad, as everyone knows by now that the silk is produced in the industry because there some propinano dramatized.
How I wish I had the courage to turn these lands, with neither guide nor driver, using the local media, mingle with the crowd, but I always have a few days, and if I want to be able to see something in 10 days ... I have to pay a pledge .
We are visiting the City of Yutan. At first glance it seems an anonymous country, but now that you just move a little I find the beating heart. Here the market, do some shopping,
is always very safe and quiet, there is never any danger, people are very friendly and sociable.
Here, finally the desert, and for him that I came up here!
has an area of \u200b\u200b270,000 square km, lies on the basin of the Tarim River, is bordered to the north and south of the Silk Road. You can now also pass through and not just drive along, because the Chinese government built a highway, 530 km long. On either side sprinklers allow the growth of plants, are used to protect the road from the sand, a colossal work cost 70 million yuen, or 14 billion lire.
... Or the Taklamakan desert of no return ...
The legendary Silk Road ... does not seem true to trample on its sands, its immense sand dunes, some as high as 30 meters ... and it's all sand! And how many footprints in the sand. Footprints of insects, snakes, animals and perhaps even wolves. What animal movements on land so inhospitable.
Walking on the dunes is really tiring. Do you feel the earth under your feet moving, you sink like the snow, but sand ...
It 's weird but the effect: the gray road, the green plant meant the sea of \u200b\u200bdunes stretching to infinity ...
are in the room, a room with a sort of hotel, truck stop. Nothing luxurious. Indeed.
But I did not expect the Grand Hotel!
But the bugs in the sheets, even those expecting them to me, do not like them. But alas, there is no alternative, I have to spend the night with them.
After dinner walk on the dunes with the light of sunset.
It is said that you go into the wilderness to find themselves. For me it's different. Tucci said as travel, to take off from the monotony of life. His last book I read: "The valley of Swatt," Tucci wrote these lines: "Give me a job in the office, the routine of the day all the same and are a dead man" ... is also entirely my thoughts.
Then I'm curious, I love seeing other landscapes, other cultures in other traditions, without necessarily having to understand or share, and above all without judging.
I like to travel on tiptoe, not to teach anything to anyone, but if you can learn ...
night? Passed to hunt insects, I emptied my bottle of repellent!
few more photos to His Majesty the Desert and are in Korla City
great, we go out, wander through its streets, 18.00 is the children are still studying, passing a school through open windows can be observed students ... but they are all Chinese. The guide in Urumqi had told us that we were studying together ... I had thought, but now I realize that the lessons are held in separate classrooms, a pity.
Day Long what lies ahead. We head for the Bosten like a pristine lake, not for long, unfortunately, but the driver does not know the way to get here, keeps asking, first to the Uighurs, the Chinese then, let's go back several times, but eventually we do it . It 'great to be here. On its waters one small boat. It seems that they are fishing. I look better, are not collecting the algae. The only boat 500 yuen wants to take us around the lake. It seems to us too so we are content to admire. Soon there will be hotels and shopping centers, are already building the motorway, these Chinese!
Dear me! The driver does not even know the road to the oasis of Turpan, but since it is very Later it was decided to ask directly to the Chinese ...
Turpan has always been the crux of the Silk Road, all roads lead here, and from there depart. From Marco Polo
before of course, here is grown grapes. This has always been desiccated.
When I relay the pergolas, very long, I imagine the caravans, after spending all day in the desert gather here to see the fresh water that flows, the cool of the pergolas, I think you should really feel like heaven!
arrive very late, I'm sick, diarrhea hit me. The guide insists that we must do at least two visits, tomorrow there will be time for everything. Despite everything, I do not shoot back, I do not give up! So
Here we are in Jiaohe, a city in ruins. Very wide, is made of mud. Not much left.
But it was a fortune to be late, because the light is perfect and there are no other tourists.
really impressive.
E 'morning and we are ready for the latest hits: the mosque, the caves of the Thousand Buddhas, in fact here in the past were Buddhist, but has been little in this site, what has not been taken away by British and Italian archaeologists, have destroyed the people once they become Muslims: how sad.
The only frescoes are still visible on those times, but were smeared with mud, which was launched specifically to delete the faces.
Now the Chinese government has realized that these sites are an economic rent, so we go to see that nothing is left. This site
we wanted to avoid it and instead give us a hand around the markets.
I'm more and more evil!
Urumqi, now I know this city, we ask the guide to leave us alone, just sightseeing, we want to live on our own, strolling through its streets, observing its people ...
E 'on Sunday, are 8.30, my stomach is still acting up. Maybe it's the yogurt that has hurt me? It seems that the pads begin to do something, I took the "DISSENTEN ...
back to the airport, waiting for us to fly from Urumqi to Beijing, our journey is ending. Baggage check, they discover I had bought the knife in Kashgar, I'm so sorry but I am obliged to give it to the guide. But how do they think that I could use a knife packed, locked and placed in the hold??
The last day in China, mostly in Beijing, with no one telling you where to go, finally free to spend time as we want, to sit in the vast Tiananmen Square and observe.
Search for a restaurant and choose just because it is crowded with Chinese, try to order on a menu written in Chinese, laughing among ourselves happy not understand anything.
Going to explore what remains of the "utong" ancient homes and discover that behind the skyscrapers of glass still resist.
I'm delighted, This trip gave me a lot. And 'the fourth time I visit China, this beautiful country with ancient history, are increasingly convinced that we should learn a lot from China instead of criticizing them ...
I'm back home. The return flights were quiet.
My son has painted the whole kitchen, I did not expect!
! THANKS!
Now everything seems like a dream, I saw so much in a few days to digest everything I have to think, but I'm sure it wont be long ... I'm already planning the next trip ...
also warmly thank Mr. Miao Yue agency Chengdu
its professionalism and reliability make it a truly reliable tour operator. These
his contacts: Email: Web ca@uuuz.com: chinatravelz.com
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