travel on the roof of the World May 31, 2004
The wide open spaces, their faces marked by fatigue and altitude and clear air will be forever in my heart!
Finally, after a study that lasted a whole year now is the day of departure. I expect big things: the share, I've never been to those heights before, and about 900 km. of unpaved road.
Broadly speaking this was the program: *
flights from Kathmandu to reach Nyalam first Tibetan village where I spent my first night in Tibet. * *
Nyalam Lats Lats Xigatse
* * Xigatse Gyantse Gyantse Kamba-la (4794m.) Karo-la (5010 m.) Yamdrok Tso (Turquoise Lake)
* Lhasa - Sera Monastery and the Jokhang shrine
* The Potala Palace and Drepung Monastery
* back to Kathmandu by plane.
The flight to Kathmandu was very long because of the numerous calls and wait times between flights and more: Milan-Frankfurt-Doha-Kathmandu.
exit the airport and take care of the visa formalities are bad surprise recently was sworn in the new king ascended the throne after a strange massacre and little loved by the people. Consequently, there is a general strike, our guide informs us of this but does not discourage us to go out for a walk, telling us that the situation is secure.
leave your luggage at the hotel, we go out! All the way, very few people in the streets, we know the beautiful Kathmandu, we know that this city is alive, and does so very sad to see it, looks like a lady with great dignity wound that will not show his pain!
order to obtain a visa for Tibet, we have to stay three days in Kathmandu, we are a little worried. But now we see a rather strange thing: stopping chance to make at least a small program, the situation must be addressed, however, and despite the strike, we must not throw away our days, we realize that we are in front of a shop whose owner was watching and obviously there at the right time has raised the damper inviting us to join the strike but if there happen to do some business may be suspended for a moment! We enter the shop, exchange some jokes in broken English with the shop and move on, as other retailers do the same thing, we can talk quietly with each and every time we go to a store closes the damper. The great thing is not to buy, wherever there is the usual "junk" for tourists, but the best part is talking to these people, ask questions, sometimes even a little bit cheeky and try to understand their thoughts and their opignioni.
In the evening we meet Mr. Pradep, he will require visas for us and the tour to Tibet.
We meet at our hotel, we found that allowed us to offer Francorosso bagget with a very low buy air tickets and stay at the Hotel Yak & Yeti is a 4 star luxury, you could not take advantage!
Mr. Pradep arrives on time, very polite, seems to have a middle-aged man (as it was once), but tells us to be talking about just 26 years! in Italy at that age they still consider children .. We deliver in his hands: a passport (though we have with us a copy) and all the money about $ 1400 without even a receipt in return, we realize then that he was right to put on him so much confidence, was a truly reliable person! Hailed
Mr. Pradep we go out for dinner: the company was to find a restaurant open, finally we find a pizzeria, our first dinner in Nepal was a pizza and a beer! But it must be admitted that the pizza maker has been able to make a REAL pizza Margherita, was exquisite.
After wandering in Kathmandu for three days to review more calmly enjoying the beautiful Patan situated about 3 km. and the beautiful temple of Swayambhunath, achieved strictly by foot along the route of early travelers, they had ventured so far in the roaring 60's, then Nepal was a haven for those seeking ...
E 'was very rewarding to visit these places with the necessary calm, observe and dive without trying at all costs to understand, but to see and accept things as they are. We met Mr.
Pradep in the evening we have delivered the documents and tickets, we also offered a superb dinner in a posh restaurant, very excited, we prepare our luggage we do not know exactly what to expect, the program refers only to the city and the steps that we will overcome. The appointment is outside the headquarters GREENLINE of a coach company, we walked past each morning to reach the center of Kathmandu is a busy area.
At 5 am, and arrive on time ... there's no surprise! The door is closed! Maybe it's a little early, I try to make me brave, look, in ones and twos are beginning to see some show, the first two Australians and a Canadian, Dutch, Korean, Malaysian, Taiwanese, English, German, Belgian, French and Italian 2 ( us), we called this expedition "the colors of the whord," we are all 22!
Our coach is like "bucks" that is a wreck, and you do not understand how it can travel, however, confident take place. We leave the paved road almost immediately to go on a road just drawn that will be with us for about 900 km. almost immediately ... a flat tire! The driver does not have the equipment nor the wheel! It rains and is also cold! But we are all calm, all we can do! After about 2 hours back to the driver accompanied by a guy who carries the wheel and made the change, it starts.
The views that flow out of the window are poignant. The light drizzle coming down gives the green rice fields of the nuances very intense. Here and there the villages emerge, they seem enchanted!
Buffaloes graze does not seem possible to see these places, to see them so close! The road
limps more and finally we see the famous Friendship Bridge, connects Nepal and China (Tibet). We must get off and walk in a row, with our passports in plain sight and in numerical order in the sequence that is printed on the group visa, we have the numbers 18 and 19. Some kids will "offer" for reward to transport the bags, it seems an exploitation, but these guys are hoping for this job, if they refused they would be forced for the day, hunger is a very sad condition, but not for us to judge If anything, our duty is to give a little bit of work to these poor people so they are forced to beg! The
Nepalese control is fast and gives us hope! Illusion! The Chinese are exhausting, they read everything that is written on the passport, looked at the picture and look at you in the face several times, check the numbers, control the self-certification in which we declare that we do not have SARS, and we measure the temperature with a digital thermometer !!!!! I dare not imagine if one of us, maybe 2 lines of fatigue had fever! Better not to think.
After about 3 hours we finally all gone. , Continue on foot, always with our good porters, and after a very steep terrain, there are some that lie ahead, the boys pay for their service and on board. The first Tibetan village that welcomes us Kodari and it has nothing to Tibet, including Tibetan population does not appear! The Chinese occupation we see now, this is a border town, no trade, and then there are the Chinese! We change some money, but we are not very convinced of the change and then change little. Another controllatina documents, you never know, and finally we are free to drink a cold beer in China in order to swallow an absurd tuna sandwich! We were told to bring food from Italy, nothing more wrong, and we ate a sandwich sad SANCO "tuna with a sad" Palmer "our traveling companions in a restaurant were able to taste the specialties of Chinese cuisine that we all know be delicious! Here come the coaches, will be the same throughout the tour, and arrived in Nyalam we prepare to spend our first night in the land of Tibet.
The hotel is huge, huge, but with no facilities, no bathrooms do it the kitchen, no shower, eat dinner in a small restaurant run by a Tibetan family, very friendly and clean enough, bring us spaghetti rice with broth and watered everything with a nice cool beer and a meal we offer a glass of rice liquor.
The room is very basic, it is in fact a single room divided by plywood, this serves to delimit a dozen small rooms that provide a modicum of privacy! We are exhausted
but the joy is through the roof!
We have the voucher for breakfast! What's wrong? This is a piece of paper, torn into small pieces, each piece guide wrote: 1 brekfast, then distributed to each of us every bit! Breakfast is always the same every morning: a piece of unleavened bread, an omelette sometimes coffee, sometimes tea.
The road is a nightmare, now we have to overcome the 2 steps Lanka-PA-LA-LA and Gyatso 5220 meters!
brief stop in a small village from where the road to Everest, we cross a small section at one time by two unforgivable errors: first: we had to stand still and quiet, drink a lot, these measures we would have avoided an upset fee which was very unpleasant! Both headache, nausea, excessive fatigue, if we had listened to Mr. Pradep! We had recommended: "Stand still when you reached the altitude, drink a lot and stand firm."
The second, no doubt more serious: we have covered only a small stretch of road, we were wrong and we have seen little, if we took 3 days longer, we could relax and go at least to the base camp, as well as we do not have neither the ability nor the strength, but at least we had to do what is within our reach!
do not know if I will be given another opportunity, there is too much see around the world and retrace roads already seen though, it would be a waste of time!
is coming to us a child Tibetan attempting an impossible dialogue between his language and ours is a bit different! A gesture then tells us that he would like a gift or money. Absolutely NO money, not have to get used to beg, so we decide to invite him to eat with us, happy to be in our company, along with some sandwiches and eat some fruit, I give him time to say goodbye to a pen, seems happy, at least seems to prove .
In the evening we reach the hotel, Lats, this is huge in Tibet are all like that, but there is no electricity, bathroom and outside practically a hole surrounded by some mats, I had the good idea to bring a flashlight: very useful and absolutely essential!
In our room we have an altar with gods and offerings, very nice, very typical ..., the pitcher with cold water, the thermos with boiling water and the bucket to be able to wash!
Virtually all comfort! But we TIBET!
Transfers to Xigatse is scary! The roads are a nightmare, the views are from a fairy tale. You can not remove his eyes from the window, but unfortunately all the mountains and wide open spaces the way has the upper hand, the driver is very handy, can forecast the curves, can cope with the twists and turns, seems calm, him!
But for all of us it is difficult not to fear. We stop in this city to visit the monastery of the Panchen Lama TASHILHUMPO residence dating back to 1447, is very large with rich frescoes on the walls. We watch the monks' prayer is held in their dormitories, the atmosphere is mystical and captivating. The monks are sitting on their couches, numerous mice undisturbed to serve: the numerous altars there are many offerings for the gods, fruit and cakes, cute rodent "feast", respected by all, because here we defend life in all its forms.
Their prayer seems to us an almost hypnotic dirge, a phrase repeated ad infinitum, apparently always the same, while Monaco is for you all the salty yak butter (I wanted to taste it, it's only for strong stomachs!) The hall where the ceremony is enormous: the ceiling is supported by several columns there are many superbly decorated hanging drapes brightly colored silk and precious embroidery, represents the different deities. The mats are placed on the benches, many benches, several rows of benches, carpets surround every seat, every carpet is a place, there are about a hundred carpets!
Sit in on these "beds" with the ceiling so high, these drapes long it feels infinitely small, I think that this effect is intentional and not a chance. Little altars everywhere, fueled by yak butter lamps, whose light flickering chiaroscuro of shadows in the drawing is not too reassuring, the smell is very pungent and penetrating not be photographed!
At the end of the ceremony a senior monaco distributed to young people and with this a little note in his hands, very neatly, leaving the coat neatly folded as a placeholder then everyone will be our impression but they seem very relieved, it is not clear if this is due to the fact that the function is over, or if the prayers had a calming effect on them, certainly no one here seems stressed.
A little 'excitement, a bit' to share, we're really on the ground. We can not even think, my head hurts, a sense of nausea attacks us, the time to send us news at home and in his own room without supper. Even a girl from Taiwan is very ill, unfortunately for her the tour ends, has serious problems and is forced to take the first flight to Lhasa, there is also upset because he was so excited and happy to be in Tibet, but the important thing is to understand when it's time to let go and not exceed their limits, in this sense she was very wise!
It took a whole night's sleep to feel again real travelers, of course we felt discouraged, I wondered, when my head was bursting, "but I am I doing here?". Now for Luckily it's me again and I did not ask her some more nonsense. Virtually all, more or less, we had problems with altitude. But we must point out that it was a great company, all we used to travel and endure the problems and then the small inconvenience. They have been very nice "fellow travelers".
arrive in Gyantse we visit a building dating back to 1414, Palkhor Choide, on 5 levels: they represent the stages to reach enlightenment, and 13 rings, symbolizing the attainment of Nirvana. It 'a very impressive and we entered the most intimate areas of the monastery: the laboratories of the monks here votive lamps produce, create of the real sculptures, the only element used yak butter, are works of art that will end soon loose! The dorms, very simple e. .. crowded kitchens: they are able to meet hundreds of people, pots and stoves are gigantic!
In the evening we turn to the city, a chef from the air very nice, there indicates its restaurant, convinces us and take advantage of the invitation. It was worth it: the cuisine is excellent, his company very agreeable.
Before saying goodbye brings us a "travel book" are memories of other passengers, small dedications and acknowledgments, a few comments. I am curious in particular the writings of an Italian girl, has covered the journey to the contrary of us, so she came from Lhasa to Gyantse we instead reach the next day. I am impressed by his description of the road, it seemed to me dreadful that already traveled to what is said but what lies ahead is frightening! I hope he's exaggerating, but not both need to go, it would be too good to be here!
My first purchase: a stand and I definitely want a cut of cloth, I want the one used by Tibetan ladies to pack their beautiful traditional costumes. This seems strange, is not a classic gift, I can hardly make myself understood, with various gestures, we can finally understand each other. Now that I found the fabric I have to ask the price per square meter and ask for 3, it seems easy. At this point, unable to understand me, the salesman has an almost violent reaction: in fact I realize that my explanation has been misunderstood and he got 3 yards of fabric I want for the price of one! Distressed
for doing so alter, I apologize and try to explain better: he understood and it all ends in a good laugh, well, I got my stuff and he all his money, we're both saluting the type still seems to ask "what I will never do this cutting of tissue, "I would say that four items of beautiful pillows will have a beautiful look great on my couch, but it is far too complicated, I give up and change the greeting.
Usual breakfast and go!
We need to reach Lhasa, in partnership with St. Christopher Bhudda have protected us: there is no other explanation!
We have to go 260 km. A road which is a unique site. Beyond the steps KAMBA-LA-LA KARO and 5010 m. All very impressive and very, very dangerous! There are passages in which our coaches are so inclined to tap the tipping point, sometimes you hear noises coming from the sinister wheels, the muffler is broken and the radiator is leaking, you need to constantly replenish it. We are finally in view of the magnificent lake Yamdrok-TSO (Turquoise Lake), here the Chinese want to build a huge tourist destination: large hotels, car parks, swimming pools etc. etc.. And they opened a site of 260 km. THESE CHINESE!
Along the lake, the road is a peak on it, there is silence, perhaps we all pray! The two Belgian guys, very friendly and always ready to laugh ... I'm petrified, too.
At each hole, the driver drops to check the wheels, this does not reassure us of course!
When you finally reach the last step in a stop, as if we jumped all the springs out of the bus, a second and you do not see any more for a few minutes!
The driver is lying on the floor, closes his eyes for a few seconds. When he finally gets up adds some "prayer flag" to the long lines that are already on hand: the we understand very well and we stand with him. It 's very impressive to see these offerings so colorful waving in the wind!
.. But there is still all down to face, we are not yet out of danger! This is really terrible brakes heat up, a bit of water to the radiator and a little bit with the brakes, the wheels controllatina in each hole to Lhasa, and so!
arrive that is almost evening, with the warm glow of the sunset after this busy day the sight of the Potala, which surprised us all look as if we were to see for the first time, in our eyes is the amazement of those who Having regard to the land after a shipwreck! We feel happy but a pure and genuine happiness. We ask our guide to stop to contemplate this structure from a distance, we need a few minutes of meditation are necessary to appreciate the elegant beauty so dangerous to reach.
We arrived at our hotel: Hotel Flora, I'll never forget, like an oasis in the desert after a poor hotel with many facilities Shower true, now more than ever we need!
During the bus trip at a moment of tranquility, we spoke to our guide, a boy about 20 years. We asked him: "I treat you like Chinese? You are marginalized? Do you have problems you live or the oppression of a people invader? "Of course the question was not so nice as they are treated Tibetans know, but it was interesting to hear the opignone a direct question.
He looks at us with considerable embarrassment and not knowing what to do starts laughing and laughing mutters this phrase: "I do not speak" (I do not speak, do not speak ...) continues to repeat these words more and more embarrassed. Sorry wanted to talk but we soon realized that they did not even freedom of speech. It goes on and now we have no more. Short stop to admire the turquoise lake, the view is magnificent. We met many workers work some others are sleeping, take the opportunity to fish in these waters there are very large fish we approach the guide to know the names of the fish, immediately smile if he comes out with these words:
"Chinese! The Tibetan people do not eat fish! "(Cinesi! Tibetans do not eat fish!)
In his words and his eyes can read all the anger towards these people invading!
could not answer in kind, but at the right time has made us understand his thinking and that of all the Tibetans!
Lhasa is a typical Central Asian, chock-full of Chinese are everywhere. The Potala
only yesterday that we had moved in the light of day we now causes almost physical pain: only 10% can be visited, not even the shadow of the monks, the faithful are allowed to enter but the spirituality is no longer at home here! Chinese manage all as a historical work, as something that belongs to the past, something that is no longer needed but makes it economically and then treat the bare essentials, whole wings of the complex are air-dropping and abandoned! In a big living room there is a huge restaurant ...
Other halls are converted into museums, to visit them you have to pay a second entrance, we reject this is not an archaeological site is a very alive in the hearts of all Tibetans, it is not right to be treated like that!
Finally we visit the Sera Monastery, here we feel the atmosphere of sanctity, the monks run the whole area, there are many, even very young many of the faithful free to profess their faith freely, at least it seems!
In the afternoon we see a philosophical discussion.
monks are mostly young, some dedicated to the monastery only a couple of years then return to being normal kids, certainly in this period can further their studies. It 'also important for these children feel close to their religion and preserve their traditions and transmit them to their children!
Unfortunately we have not understood a word and we will never know if they talked really about philosophy, for all we know they could talk about anything!
The interesting, but it was observed: many groups have formed in such a monaco is just standing, the others are sitting around him, almost forming a semicircle. The Monaco standing launches a sentence and looking around among the monks sit one who should respond. After the sentence claps his hands and taking a step forward means the chosen one. These should be given to do to respond to the sense, it is sometimes taken by surprise and another answer for him. When the first monaco no more arguments to be launched will be replaced by another and so on, are very taken by their discussions, some are raising their voices to defend their thinking, others look very carefully without attending ...
I would have loved to understand ...
Too bad there are so many different languages \u200b\u200bon this planet would be very nice to know and understand all and to introduce it without difficulty, and our and their thoughts!
Our visit to Tibet, unfortunately coming to an end, our impression was that this people has been very mild subdued by the Chinese because of their attachment to religion. It seemed that their peaceful nature and calm has been exploited by the Chinese.
During our trip we happened to see Vole many children go to school. Like all children of the world!
But we have seen something unpleasant: the entire student body forms a tidy row, so far nothing unusual, are Chinese! The sad thing is that the entire student body that they are Chinese or Tibetan, follows the flag "CHINESE" all lined up behind it! And where is the Tibetan flag? The Chinese
bring progress, even more so now with the Beijing-Lhasa railway, the young Tibetans gradually lose their tradition to become "Chinese" too.
course is not for us to judge, history is full of dominant populations, this has accelerated the development merging with the dominant indigenous population develops a new population, this usually leads to economic growth and artistic, but how many lives have still be sacrificed in the name of progress?
thank and salute all the Tibetan people I met on this trip unforgettable!
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